Ireland and Isle of Man

Aug 30-Sep 7, 2024
AC800 YYZ-DUB, EI3212 DUB-IOM, EI3217 IOM-DUB, AC801 DUB-YYZ

At about the same time last year, we had planned a trip to the Isle of Man (IOM) from London. Unfortunately, our flight from London was canceled, so we decided to cut our losses and defer the IOM for another time. This year, when I found business class award seats to Ireland around the Labour Day weekend, we ultimately decided to combine some time in Ireland with the IOM. September is already shoulder season for the Isle, so ferry service was no longer an option, but there were a few flight options from Dublin or Belfast. To keep it simple, we planned one day in Dublin and then two nights in the IOM, before returning for four more nights in Ireland. With a blank slate on Ireland. we decided to focus on the southwest, and stayed in Dingle and covered the Ring of Kerry.

Aug 31

Before heading to the IOM, after our overnight flight to Dublin, we were at our downtown hotel by early morning and had time for a quick nap, before spending the day in Dublin.

St. Patrick's Cathedral

Temple Bar before the big party crowds arrive

Walking around the River Liffey

"The Meeting Place" public art along River Liffey

The Parnell Monument with some pro-Palestinian protestors

120m high The Spire still impresses

The Book of Kells experience brings some multi-media to add more context to the historic book

The Sphere Sculpture at Trinity College

Trinity College Campus

Ogham Stone with ancient markings (5th/6th Century)

Another Ogham Stone

Image of one of the pages of the 9th Century Book of Kells

After viewing the actual book of Kells, we get to see the Trinity College Library

Impressive college library, with the majority of the historic collection recently removed for cleaning and restoration

One of the many busts lining the shelves

Looking back at the empty shelves

Modern office complex

Looking across the river at the imposing Wellington Monument

Irish Museum of Modern Art

Massive tapestry in the Modern Art Museum

Art outside the museum

Modern art museum housed in the 17th-century Royal Hospital Kilmainham

Gardens at the Royal Hospital Kilmainham

Garden statuary

Church of St. Nicholas of Myra

Garden of Remembrance

Connected with NYC Union Square by the Portal; unfortunately, we didn't visit the other side when we were just in NYC

O'Connell Monument

River Liffey at dusk from the O'Connell Bridge

Bank of Ireland

Bars lit up for Saturday night

Back at St. Patrick's Park near our hotel

With a full day around Dublin, and over 20,000 steps, we were ready for dinner. We found a nice Indian restaurant near the hotel. After a great meal, we were ready to get some sleep.

Sep 1

To catch our morning flight to Isle of Man, we caught the first bus to the airport. After check-in, we had some time in the lounge before we needed to board the plane. Everything was on schedule, and after our second attempt, we finally arrived in the Isle of Man, picked up our rental car, and headed out across the island to Peel.

Peel boatyard on the

Peel town with the Peel Beach on the right

Peel Castle from the pier

Peel Castle exterior

Lifeboat station where rescue boats launch to respond to maritime accidents

Main castle tower and chapel

Touring the Peel Castle interior

Looking back at Peel

Castle cannons

Viewing the city through the castle ruins

Unique Manx flag, a triskelion design with three legs

Inspecting the castle mortar and wear from centuries of wind

The rabbits had the run of the grounds; we were warned to avoid twisting an ankle

Grounds with the town and coast in the background

Continuing to tour the fort grounds

Crypt in the lower castle

Looking down on the castle

Cathedral interior

Fenella chainsaw sculpture

House of Manannan museum

Model of the ancient mounds

How the early Manx lived on the Isle

Ships that arrived with the Vikings

Kitchen supplies in the museum

Bread making machine

Fish containers

Showcasing the history of Lifeboat rescues around the Isle

Walking Peel Beach before heading out

Tide very much out at Fennella Beach

Winding our way across the island's often-narrow roads

Looking across at Calf of Man island from the southern tip of the Isle

Exploring the rugged coastline

Sealions resting along the coast

Beautiful rugged coastline

Beautiful fall flowers

We had a great first day in the Isle of Man, and although the weather wasn’t perfect, we were grateful that we only had a few sprinkles. We made our way to Douglas, checked into our hotel, and grabbed some dinner nearby.

Sep 2

For our next day on the Isle, we continued to have some cloud cover and a few intermittent showers, but they didn’t really impact our plans. We started the day at the Manx Museum in Douglas.

The Giant Deer Stag at the museum

More ancient stone writing

Historic Tram that ran along Douglas promenade

Tracing the TT Motorcycle Race history in the museum

Another motorcycle

The sidecar race is a unique part of the TT -- this one didn't fare so well

Fitted out sidecar

Taxidermied Manx cat, showing off its tail stub

Modern home of the Isle of Man Parliament in Douglas

Somewhat rainy TT grandstand for the start and end of the mountain race course

Douglas Burough Cemetery opposite the TT Grandstand

Cemetery grave

Model of the Rushen Abbey

Restored ruins of the Rushen Abbey; thankfully they lent us an umbrella to stay relatively dry

The garden where the abbey once stood

National War Museum at Tynwald Hill

Official parliament site at Tynwald Hill, located there since the 14th century, and evocative of the island's Viking-influenced heritage. Although there is a building in Douglas for most business, this is still the official capitol

The Royal Chapel of St John the Baptist, facing Tynwald Hill

Millennium of Tynwald Monument

Driving the TT mountain route with the named and numbered features

The beautiful flowers at Point of Ayre on the NE tip of the Isle

Warning siren

Point of Ayre Lighthouse

Duck outside Grove Museum

Farm machinery outside the Grove Museum

Historic Grove Museum house and grounds

Victorian house interior

Grandfather clock

Beehive model

Grove Museum gardens

Full scope of the Grove Museum house

St. Paul's church in Ramsey

Church of our Lady, Ramsey

Watching the beach from Queens Promenade in Ramsey

Luckily the winds were calm today

Continuing to walk the Promenade

Life boat launch in Ramsey

When I Grow Up public art depicts a young child that wants to serve on the lifeboats

Ransey Millennium Sculpture depicting two Norse Kings

Ramsey war memorial

St. Maughold church and graveyard

We had company for our short hike

Another observer

Looking up the coast from Maughold Head

Maughold Lighthouse

Checking out the Great Laxey Wheel, closed for the day, on our way back to Douglas

Watching a Steam Packet ferry arriving from England

Villa Marina in Douglas

Douglas War Memorial

Douglas Opera House

Statue commemorating some of Isle of Man's most famous exports

Beautiful gardens next to Douglas Central Beach

Douglas Jubilee clock

Ferry Terminal

The Tower of Refuge from Shipwreck, stone-built castellated structure on St Mary's Isle in Douglas Bay

Looking back on our less than luxury hotel, which was at least well-located

Some of the many motorbikes here to relive the TT experience

Safely back at the hotel after a full day of touring and avoiding the rain showers, we found dinner at a fish and chip shop next to the hotel and turned in for the evening.

Sep 3

We actually had a clear forecast for a good part of the last day we had on the isle. To make the most of it, we got an early start and headed to the mountains. Unfortunately, the blue skies didn’t last all day, but we managed to see some beautiful scenery and some more history regardless.

Heading into the mountains on the A18 along the TT Route

The Snaefell Mountain Railway tracks that lead to the top of Isle of Man's highest peak

Some of the TT infrastructure is permanent at the Bunalow

Continuing through the mountains on A14, but no longer on the TT course

Very pretty house in the mountain valley along the Sulby River

Sulby Reservoir and Dam

Checking out the giant Great Laxey Wheel, the largest waterwheel in the world, before they opened the flow of water from the reservoir for the day

Broader perspective on the 1854 72'/22m diameter wheel where the water is released just below the upper platform

Nearby waterfall with water not flowing through the wheel

Entrance to the now-abandoned mine that was originally powered by the wheel. I tested the hard hat on the low rock ceilings a few times

The end of the line for us

Watching the water flow through the mechanism

Amazing view of the valley from the platform at the top of the wheel

View as we ride the Snaefell Mountain Railway up the mountain

We made it to the top and right into a cloud. The ride was cool, but not as scenic as we'd hoped.

Marker at the highest peak in the Isle of Man

Making our way down and now out of the cloud before grabbing some ice cream on our way towards the airport

13th Century Castle Rushen was our last stop on the historical tour

Entering through the well-protected castle gates

View of Castletown from the tower, making it clear that the blue skies were a distant memory

The city and harbour below the castle walls

The well-restored exterior

They also restored some of the interior rooms to give a sense of castle life

Fire was a necessity with the cool wet climate

Our last stop was at the Captain Quilliam (a local naval hero) Statue before dropping the car at the airport and flying back to Dublin

After arriving in Dublin, we picked up the rental car, and drove to the small town to Trim, famous for its castle

We had an amazing view of Trim Castle across the street from our hotel

Looking back at the castle from across the river

After a good walk around the castle grounds, we looked for dinner in the town, and continuing our very Irish diet, found a nice Indian restaurant for dinner.

Sep 4

We started our next day in Ireland with more time to explore Trim, before heading south east towards Dingle. We didn’t have a firm itinerary when we set out, but first headed to Kilkenny.

Ireland's Oldest Bridge over the River Boyne in Trim

St Mary's Abbey ruins and the Sheep Gate

Old bridge ruins -- the river used to run below, but has since meandered or been diverted elsewhere, nearby

Last view of Trim Castle before heading towards Kilkenny

Kilkenny Hurling Statue commemorating the local sport

Kilkenny Castle over the River Nore

Entrance to the castle

Castle State Dining Room was formal dining room in the 1860's

Castle entrance hall, the main entry since the 17th century

Grand Staircase - 19th century mahogany staircase

Castle statuary

Drawing Room

Looking at the castle and grounds from inside

The nursery provide a glimpse of 19th century childhood

The Blue Bedroom

The Moorish Staircase, added later to provide improved access to the Picture Gallery

The Picture Gallery, added during the early nineteenth century

Full breadth of the castle

Kilkenny Castle Garden

Market Cross Shopping Centre on High St. in Kilkenny

Ruins of Jerpoint Abbey, originally founded in 1180

The detailed carvings are well-preserved and restored

Close up on one of the carvings

Broad perspective of the ruin foundation

Ancient intricate stone carvings

Last view of Jerpoint Abbey exterior before heading out

We stopped to visit the grave of Tom's friend Kevin, who died of cancer shortly after our first visit to Ireland 10 years earlier

After driving through some rain, the skies clear as we enter the Dingle Peninsula

We navigated the narrow one lane road to Minard Castle

Minard Castle with the Iveragh Peninsula in across the bay

Dingle Harbour

Beautiful skies to end the day at Dingle

Picturesque town of Dingle

After a long day of driving, we enjoyed some very fresh and local Fish and Chips near the harbour before turning in for the evening.

Sep 5

The Ring of Kerry around the Iveragh Peninsula is one of the premium drives in Ireland. It is very popular with both the tour bus crowd and self drivers, and we needed to get an early start. Dingle, although a very nice location to stay at, was unfortunately almost 2 hours from the traditional start of the Ring of Kerry. We arrived at Kenmare a little after 10:00am and started our clockwise trip.

Stopping along the Dingle Peninsula on our way to Kenmare

Inch Beach with the mountains of Iveragh Peninsula ahead

Panorama of Inch Beach

Blackwater Pier, our first stop out Kenmare on the Ring of Kerry loop

Looking across the bay to Beara Peninsula

The town of Sneem's cathedral

Rocky elements of Sneem River flowing through town

1985 Tree of Light Sculpture in one of two of Sneem's town squares

Charles de Gaulle memorial commemorating his holiday in the area in 1969

Impressive Staigue ringfort, one of the forts that inspire the "Ring" in the Ring of Kerry

Incredible views as we walk the round stone walls

Very impressive restoration

Castlecove Beach

Enjoying the view from the lookout as we make our way clockwise around the peninsula

View of the distant Skellig Islands

Panorama from the very scenic lookout

Charlie Chaplin statue in town of Waterville where he regularly holidayed

Zooming into Skellig Islands

St. Finian's Bay

Serious hat head as I save my hat from the wind gusts at the peak of the road

Our less than compact car built tough in Romania is ready to complete the next half of the drive

After paying the high parking fee, we are able to walk to Kerry Cliffs and the advertised best views in Kerry County

Luckily the views lived up to the hype, even with the sun not well positioned for photos

More of the rocky coastline

Our last of the best views

Llama with a view

I don't think the llamas had to pay extra for the best view in Kerry

Clock tower in Knightstown on Valentia Island

Looking across to the mainland

Memorial in Knightstown commemorates a public water supply built in 1847 during the Irish Famine

Riding on Ireland's oldest active ferry vessel, back to the main road

Ferry loading up for its return trip to the island, as it runs continually back and forth

Visiting Cahergal, our last ringfort on the loop

We briefly had the fort to ourselves

Back at the lookout near Dingle, where we started our morning

A bit of cloud cover on the Dingle Pass, as we make our way back to the town of Dingle

With a very full day of driving behind us, we had a brief rest before heading into Dingle for an early dinner, at a lovely wine bar and pizza restaurant with some amazing salads. We managed to get some good rest, as we had another full day of driving ahead for our last day in Ireland.

Sep 6

One of the main reasons to visit Dingle is to drive the Slea Head Loop Drive, which is similar to the Ring of Kerry, but a much shorter 45km/30 miles. Although the scale is smaller, it was very worth the drive, and was our last major attraction before heading back to Dublin for our flight home the next day. Again, as a popular destination, and with a long journey ahead, we got out on the road right after breakfast to start the Slea Head Loop Drive.

Restored Fehan Beehive Huts

Checking out the interior

Cross at Slea Head marks a turn in the loop round

"Blasket's View", another scenic pullout

Stopping for the view near Coumeenoole Beach

Dunquin Burial Ground, with a view of some of the coastal islands

Exploring the coastal trail near the Great Blasket Centre -- always remember to use the handrail!

Sculpture outside the Great Blasket Centre

Gallarus Oratory, built over 1,300 years ago, is one the Ireland's best-preserved early Christian Churches

View from inside the Oratory

Ruined church of Kilmalkedar

Inside the chapel ruins

Having given up the clear skies for cloud, we can barely see Conor Pass on our way out of Dingle

The very narrow pass enshrouded in cloud

With a quick stop in Limerick, we get a nice view of the Limerick Castle from Arthur's Quay Park

Pedestrian bridge connecting the park to the castle

St. Mary's Cathedral in Limerick

Public art outside the Hunt Museum

From Limerick, we made our way to Dublin. Google Maps ended up avoiding some road closured and slowdowns, creating a creative, but not completely direct, way to our hotel in the Dublin suburbs. Tom was able to safely navigate the oncoming traffic in the two-way one-lane road that made part of the route, and we were happy to be parked for the night. Our hotel was a near a shopping mall with lots of food options, so we were set for our last evening.

Sep 7

With a relatively early flight and a lounge waiting for us in the airport, we were up quite early and headed directly to the airport. We safely returned the rental car, and were checked in and in the lounge pretty quickly, and our flight got us home to Toronto more or less on time. We were very happy to be home midday Saturday with a full day to recover from the trip before work on Monday.